Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children are reluctant to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to explore these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
